Hair Care

Shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair 3 Best Eco-friendly surfactants

September 18, 2020
shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

Shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

If you are anything like me you will understand the basic issue of wavy frizzy hair.

God! That kind of hair has its own mind. Hair will decide when you should look good or like a nest.

The frizzes sometime gives me a headache and increase my blood pressure through the roof.

Today we will make a shampoo bar recipe for wavy frizzy hair that maybe can help this kind of hair.

As per the hair typing my hair is Type 2C wavy and coarse. It is S shaped more defined has thick waves.

They become frizzy easily and super hard to style. A good hair day can all of a sudden become all over the place.

I think it may be because for first 19 years of my life I stayed just 1 Km from the sea and the humidity was super high.

Only when I moved from that place I had a lot of good hair and I was super happy about it.

My mother still has this kind of hair which is on the verge of curly and wavy.

Usually these kind of hair has low amount of oil compared to the straight hair therefore it is a bit wavy.

So while developing recipe for this kind of hair we need to remember that we need to add some more oil than the straight hair shampoo bar recipe.

Keeping this in mind we will choose our ingredients for a shampoo bar recipe for wavy frizzy dry hair

The first thing to consider is this kind of hair is dry so we need to have a shampoo bar with loads of moisturizing agents.

Since this hair is prone to frizzis it needs to have a detangler.

You might also need a silicone or a natural substitute for silicone.

You would need hair loving oil.

A gentle cleanser which will not dry out the hair.

A protein to make hair stronger as this kind of hair can go brittle pretty soon.

So these were the parameters which I had to look into while making a shampoo bar recipe for wavy frizzy hair.

As per this I choose my ingredients accordingly

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I choose 3 surfactants which are gentle for the hair and environment.

First surfactant of my choice was SCI or also known as Baby foam  ( INCI – Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate )

This is a very gentle surfactant which can be used in baby products too that’s how gentle it is. It is not at all harsh and can clean without  being drying. Usually the pH is between 4.5 to 5.5 that’s what makes it gentle.

I will list down the supplier name in the notes section where I purchased it as many of you are asking me for the supplier.

Our second surfactant is SLSa or Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate it is not  SULPHATE it is a mild anionic surfactant. It works great with SLSa and can be used to increase the bubbles in the shampoo bar.

PH of SLSa is around 7 which quite good for a shampoo bar

Disclaimer : You MUST wear a DUST MASK while using these surfactant. Please don’t blame me if you have irritation in your nose throat or Lungs

Respect the ingredients and they will respect you back.

Our third surfactant is CAPB or Cocamidopropyl Betaine. This is not Coco Betaine thought the name sounds so familiar. Please always ask your supplier what he/she is giving you. If they can’t tell the difference then don’t buy just RUN.

So this is the first and only liquid surfactant that we will be using in the recipe. It is a super amphoteric surfactant that is really good to use with SCI and SLSa.

I have made a liquid foaming hand wash with this surfactant on my Youtube channel. Have a look once you finish this post

All the above ingredients are Biodegradable surfactants and our Mother Earth will love you for this.

So next are our emulsifiers which hold these surfactants and other ingredient together and give a good body to the shampoo bar.

Our first Emulsifier is BTMS 50 also known as Behentrimonium Methosulfate Cetyle Alcohol and Butylene Glycol.

It has dual purpose in this recipe. BTMS 50 is a emulsifier and a conditioning agent at the same time.

It is cationic emulsifier which make it a conditioning agent as well.

Our next ingredient is a thickener. Cetyl Alcohol give nice body to the bar and helps with the slip.

It also makes the bar nice rock hard along with BTMS 50.

Moisturizing agents

Glycerin is the best moisturizer to be used in anything related to skincare or hair care. It is a great humeactant which means it draws water from the surrounding to it. This make hair nice and moist for a long time.

It is the cheapest ingredient in our recipe with many folds benefit.

Sodium Lactate is another moisturizing agent and it is naturally found on our skin. It is sodium salt of lactic acid. It is stronger that glycerine and second to Hyaluronic acid. It holds water twice more than glycerin.

It is a super ingredient if you want to use it in shampoo bar for wavy frizzy hair. It will be of great help.

Silk protein is another ingredient that you would love to add when your hair is dry and frizzy it is a moisturizing agent with a silky smooth finish. It is a great addition to conditioner bars as well.

Cetrimonium Chloride is and anti fizz agent and a detangler. And you very well know we need one in this kind of shampoo bar. It reduces the static in the hair and makes it nice and smooth and easy to comb.

Some people ask me to add to the shampoo bar but my two cents for dimethicone thought it’s a very beautiful ingredient to add but there are conflicting reviews regarding this ingredient for Dry hair.

You can easily skip this ingredient with Brocolli seed oil which is a natural silicone.

Read Curly Girl Method

Ingredients you might add at per your choice


Hydrolysed Wheat Protein or Oat Protein

Honey Quat


This is one ingredient where a lot from our DIY skincare community have issues. Some say that you do not need to add preservative to a shampoo bar because it is anhydrous product.

Each is to its own.

My two cents on this is I will add preservative to my shampoo bar recipe as I feel that this bar lasts unusually long and if I have to keep it in my bathroom forever and introduce humidity every time I take bath. Not head shower just plain simple shower then I will add preservative as I do not want mold, bacteria and east to grow on it.

Then again its your final call.

Shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

Dry Phase

20% – SCI needles

41% – SCI powder

12% – SLSa powder

Melt down Phase

5% – BTMS 50

4% – Cetyl Alcohol

2% – Almond Oil

5% – CAPB

Cool Down Ingredients

3% – Glycerine

2% – Sodium Lactate

2% – Silk Protein

1% – Cetrimonium Chloride

1% – Dimethicone

0.5% – Vitamin E

0.5% – Lemon Ginger FO

1% – Preservative

Shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

Total Batch Size – 50 grams trials

Dry Phase

10g – SCI needles

20.5g – SCI powder

6g –  SLSa powder

Melt down Phase

2.5g – BTMS 50

2g – Cetyl Alcohol

1g – Almond Oil

2.5g – CAPB

Cool Down Ingredients

1.5g – Glycerine

1g – Sodium Lactate

1g – Silk Protein

0.5g – Cetrimonium Chloride

0.5g – Dimethicone

0.25g – Vitamin E

0.25g – Lemon Verbena FO

0.5g – Preservative

shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

Equipment Needed


Heat safe Beakers or bowls

Mixing bowl


Weighing scale

pH meter or Litmus paper or pH paper

Mold or Moon cake press

Instruction to Follow for Shampoo Bar Recipes for wavy frizzy and dry hair

Clean and sanitize all the area, containers and spatulas before making any skincare and hair care product. Maintaining good GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) is as important as making an effective product as well.

shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

Wear a Dust Mask.

First weight out SCI powder and SLSa powder and keep it aside.

shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair

Now weight out BTMS 50, Cetyl alcohol, Almond oil, CAPB.

Warm all these in a heat proof container in a microwave with 30 seconds burst or on a double boiler till all the BTMS 50 and Cetyl alcohol is melted.

Do not burn the mixture.

Now mix in all the Dry phase and melt down phase together and knead it like a dough.

Once everthing is mixed well let the mixture cool down below 40 degrees celcius.

Add this stage check your pH with either a litmus strip or a pH meter with 10% solution.

If the shampoo bar pH is below 7 we are good to go.

If the pH is above 7 add a acid like a 50% solution of citric acid drop by drop and adjust the pH .

Now add cool down phase ingredients with a pinch of green mica.  Knead it properly

Ideally I would check pH after this step as well since there are some preservative which will reduce the pH of a product in case it the pH goes below 4.5 I would like to add some NaOH 50% solution drop by drop till I reach a required pH. Please make sure you note this down the first time you conduct the trials so next time you can add it directly to the recipe while making it. I hope I am clear about this. If not please write it in comments section I would be happy to answer.

Knead it well.

I am using a mold for this shampoo bar feel free to use moon cake press for molding.

Ideally I would allow it to dry for 3 days having said that since this is a syndet bar we would not need to cure it. 3 days is just the drying period to make the bar much stronger and harder so it is easier to handle.

Feel Free to scale the recipe up or down as per your needs.

Do let me know how it worked out for you.

Looking forward to have a communication feedback with you about this recipe.

If you wish to watch me make this please do check out the video format.


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Please make sure you keep this shampoo bar in dry ventilated area in between the use.

Usually I have no issues of getting a soggy bar with the recipe but if you do have any issues like this comment it the box below I would be happy to answer.

Make sure your shampoo bar is pH range of hair which is usually between 4.5 – 5.5

Even if the pH of shampoo bar is 7 it is a good pH do not go over 7 for any haircare product.

Majority of my ingredients for this shampoo bar recipes for wavy frizzy hair is from

  1. Monika Soothat from Bath Sutra
  2. Sneha Mahesh from Arihant Supplies
  3. Lemon Verbena Yankee BB Type FO is from Moksha Lifestyle
  4. Almond oil and Vitamin E – Aethon International

Similar post

Shampoo Bar Recipe without lye

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  • Reply
    Sripriya Ashwin
    June 10, 2021 at 12:55 pm

    Hi Aarti,
    I’m sripriya from chennai, a cp soap maker. Just want to try my hands on shampoo bar making.

    I came across a recipe from which reads as below.
    50% sci, 10% water, 15% oils, 25% powdered herbs.
    Can I try this simple recipe? Just a little skeptical about the ph and conditioning effects which might go missing due to the absence of btms, cetaryl alcohol etc. Pls would you be able to advise?

    Thank you

    • Reply
      June 12, 2021 at 7:24 pm

      I am sorry but this recipe has 25% of powdered herbs and from my experience, that’s a lot of herbs for a shampoo bar without preservatives so I know it is not going to work. plus it’s not just these but there are so many ingredients that make a shampoo bar work effectively I would say try out the recipe from one of the blogs that I have on this website those are all tried and tested so I know the results will be good.

  • Reply
    Viral Achesariya
    July 20, 2021 at 2:37 pm

    Is this shampoo bar, can be use on keratin process hair as well bcoz in it client has to use sulfate free shampoo.
    Thank you ma’am

  • Reply
    Anju Vaid
    July 27, 2021 at 5:13 pm

    Hi Arthi lived the way u have explained things ,how do I add Pantheol & Keratin to this shampoo bar.

  • Reply
    Anju Vaid
    July 27, 2021 at 6:06 pm

    Hi Aarti how do I add Pantheol & Keratin in this shampoo bar ,can u pls explain

    • Reply
      August 6, 2021 at 11:30 pm

      Hi you can add panthenol to this recipe between 1 – 2 % AND same with keratin you can sub it from sci

  • Reply
    October 13, 2021 at 7:49 pm

    Hey Aarti, Can i use just sci powder for this or do we have to use SCI needles also?? also where can I get silk protein??

  • Leave a Reply