Hair Care

Shampoo Bar Recipe with BTMS 50

September 10, 2020

Shampoo Bar Recipe with Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil

Today we are going to make a shampoo bar with my absolute favorite ingredient my i.e. Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil.

This is my favorite Herbal hair oil recipe with 40 powerful ingredients that takes care of all my hair problems.

If you have not read the recipe here’s your chance Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil Recipe.

Our hair is the most vital part of our looks and a good hair day just makes everything worthwhile.

At first I used to use shampoo like millions of people on this planet Earth. A store brought shampoo in a bottle.

But since the time I started making my own skincare products that not just help us but our mother earth too. I shifted from Shampoo Bottle to a shampoo bar.

It is the most ideal and welcome change to a zero waste product that I cherish.

Not only I saved a lot of money of paying just for the water in the bottle. But also one shampoo bottle less in the dump yard. I started using shampoo bar past several years now and I am so thankful to myself that I did. I must have saved so many bottles from going in those yards.

I had posted this recipe on the YouTube channel and one of my subscribers actual made it used it for couple of months and gave me a feedback regarding the recipe.

She made a video and sent it to me I have uploaded the video on my channel as I was too happy and excited.

Check out Review for Shampoo Bar Recipe with Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil.

So Now let’s jump into making of our Shampoo Bar Recipe.


shampoo bar recipe

The first ingredient which I would like to talk about is SCI.

SCI – ( INCI – Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate )

SCI is a water soluble powder-y surfactant. It is gentle anionic surfactant derived from Coconut. You can get it in powder/ noodles / needles form. pH of this surfactant is between 4.5 to 6.5 which is very close to our hair therefore it is considered as a gentle surfactant. Usually it has 85% of active matter but you need to check with your supplier about this. I like to use this surfactant as a base for my shampoo bar where I do not need to worry about the pH of the final product that much.

Having said that we should always check pH of any end product and make it compatible with our skin and hair. We will discuss this again in our Instructions.

SlSa – ( INCI – Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate )

This is not a Sulphate which we need to avoid. We avoid SLS – Sodium Lauryl Sulfate which is not the same as SLSa.

SLSa is a super ingredient for our shampoo bars because it is also anionic surfactant like our SCI and much much milder. Usually the active of this ingredient is 70% but again check with your supplier.

It give super bubbles to our shampoo bar and I love to use it in many wash off products. I wish someday I will show all the products that I make from SLSa.

The pH of this surfactant is between 5 – 7 which is compatible to our hair.

It is a must add ingredient in my shampoo bars right now.

While using both the above ingredients wearing a DUST MASK is a MUST. These are fine particals and you don’t want them to inhale and irritate your lungs.

CAPB – ( INCI – Cocamidopropyl Betaine )

CAPB is the third surfactant used in this shampoo bar recipe and the first one to be liquid surfactant. It is a amphoteric surfactant which can be golden coloured or transparent in nature.

pH of this surfactant is in between 5-6 which is again well within the range of our final product.

It is also a mild surfactant and is so versatile. It is cheaper than any other surfactant used in the formula and can reduce the cost.

I make many liquid wash off product with CAPB as it is water soluble. I have a video on making handwash with this surfactant if you wish check this out.

BTMS 50 – ( INCI – Behentrimonium Methosulfate Cetyle Alcohol and Butylene Glycol )

BTMS 50 is in emulsifying agent cationic in nature which makes it conditioning. The 50 in BTMS 50 is the active ingredient of Behentrimonium Methosulfate.

pH of this ingredient is 7 which is well within range for hair care products.

I love this ingredient for two reason it is a complete emulsifying wax at the same time is a conditioning agent and I would never ever substitute this ingredient with anything else however if you looking for something else than BTMS 50 I guess it would be another blogpost in itself.

Cetyl Alcohol – ( INCI – Cetyl Alcohol )

Cetyl acohol is a thickener used in this formulation. It gives a nice body to the shampoo bar and helps in improving slip to the bar.

It will also stabilize the shampoo bar and allow it to hold its shape and do not melt away in the water that easily. It will make the bar nice and thick / hard.

Since it is oil soluble we will melt it with BTMS 50 and oil in the heated phase.

Silk Protein – ( INCI – Hydrolyzed silk protein, benzylalcohol, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate)

Silk protein is from natural silk fiber from the cocoon of silk worms. It is an excellent moisturizing agent, It will give our hair silky smooth finish after wash. It is an amphoteric protein which makes is versatile to use in our shampoo bar recipe.

pH of silk protein is usually 5 which is again so beneficial for the hair.

Panthenol – ( INCI – Panthenol ) – Vitamin B5

Usually l like to use D Panthenol then DL Panthenol. If you wish to know more about these two panthenols please comment in below I would love to explain it to you further.

It is a super moisturizing ingredient to be added for our shampoo bar recipe. It improves shine on the hair and reduce static of the hair. It will also make hair soft and boucy.

Cetrimonium Chloride ( INCI – Cetrimonium Chloride )

I love using Cetrimonium Chloride in my shampoo bar recipe as it has so so many uses.

It is a conditioning agent an anti-static agent it is also anti-frizz and a detangler.  It does so many things at just one time and it makes it to my list of the ingredients quite offen.

Dimethicone – ( INCI – Dimethicone )

This is one ingredient that you can skip if you wish to. It is a silicone and I have found mixed reviews from people regarding the same.

I like to use this in my shampoo bar recipe as it helps condition the hair and add nice slip to the shampoo bar. It will also reduce tackiness and really gives hair that gorgeous feel.

If I was a curly haired girl I might skip this ingredient from the recipe and add maybe some more panthenol.


This is one ingredient where a lot from our DIY skincare community have issues. Some say that you do not need to add preservative to a shampoo bar because it is anhydrous product.

Each is to its own.

My two cents on this is I will add preservative to my shampoo bar recipe as I feel that this bar lasts unusually long and if I have to keep it in my bathroom forever and introduce humidity every time I take bath. Not head shower just plain simple shower then I will add preservative as I do not want mold, bacteria and east to grow on it.

Then again its your final call.

Shampoo Bar Recipe

Shampoo Bar Recipe in percentages

5% – Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil

65.4% – SCI Powder

10% – SLSa Powder


6% – BTMS 50

3% – Cetyl Alcohol

1% – Hydrolyzed Silk Protein

1% – D Panthenol

1% – Cetrimonium Chloride

1% – Dimethicone

1% – Broadspectrum Preservative of your choice

1.4% Shahi Gulab Fragrance Oil

A Pinch – Mica of your choice

Shampoo Bar Recipe in Grams

Total output – 50 grams

2.5 grams – Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil

32.7 grams – SCI  Powder

5 grams – SLSa  Powder

2 grams – CAPB

3 grams  – BTMS 50

1.5 grams – Cetyl Alcohol

0.5 gram – Hydrolyzed Silk Protein

0.5 gram – D Panthenol

0.5 gram – Cetrimonium Chloride

0.5 gram – Dimethicone

0.5 gram – Broadspectrum Preservative of your choice

0.8gram – Shahi Gulab Fragrance Oil

A Pinch – Mica of your choice

Equipment Needed


Heat safe Beakers or bowls

Mixing bowl


Weighing scale

pH meter or Litmus paper or pH paper

Mold or Moon cake press

Instruction to Follow for Shampoo Bar Recipe
  • Clean and sanitize all the areas, containers, and spatulas before making any skincare and hair care products. Maintaining good GMP ( Good Manufacturing Practices ) is as important as making an effective product as well.
  • Wear a Dust Mask.
  • First weight out SCI powder and SLSa powder and keep it aside.
  • Now weight out BTMS 50, Cetyl alcohol, Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil, Silk Protein, D Panthenol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Dimethicone.
  • Warm all these in a heatproof container in a microwave with 30 seconds burst or on a double boiler till all the BTMS 50 and Cetyl alcohol is melted.
  • Do not burn the mixture.
  • Now mix in all the Dry phase and CAPB and heated phase together and knead it like a dough.
  • Once everything is mixed well let the mixture cool down below 40 degrees Celcius.
  • Add this stage to check your pH with either a litmus strip or a pH meter with 10% solution.
  • If the shampoo bar pH is below 7 we are good to go.
  • If the pH is above 7 add an acid like a 50% solution of citric acid drop by drop and adjust the pH.
  • Now add Preservative, Shahi Gulab Fragrance Oil, and a pinch of Mica.
  • Ideally, I would check pH after this step as well since there is some preservative which will reduce the pH of a product in case it the pH goes below 4.5 I would like to add some NaOH 50% solution drop by drop till I reach a required pH. Please make sure you note this down the first time you conduct the trials so next time you can add it directly to the recipe while making it. I hope I am clear about this. If not please write it in the comments section I would be happy to answer.
  • Knead it well.
  • I am using a moon cake press for molding but feel free to use anything mold.
  • I have also added some glitter but that is completely optional.
  • Ideally, I would allow it to dry for 3 days having said that since this is a syndet bar we would not need to cure it. 3 days is just the drying period to make the bar much stronger and harder so it is easier to handle.
  • So now your shampoo bar is ready to use.

Feel Free to scale the recipe up or down as per your needs.

Do let me know how it worked out for you.

Looking forward to have a communication feedback with you about this recipe.

If you wish to watch me make this please do check out the video format.

Shampoo bar recipe with Ayurvedic Herbal Hair Oil


Please make sure you keep this shampoo bar in dry ventilated area in between the use.

Usually I have no issues of getting a soggy bar with the recipe but if you do have any issues like this comment it the box below I would be happy to answer.

Make sure your shampoo bar is pH range of hair which is usually between 4.5 – 5.5

Even if the pH of shampoo bar is 7 it is a good pH do not go over 7 for any haircare product.

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    • Reply
      Keerthi Sundaram
      February 10, 2021 at 11:15 am

      Hi Aarti,
      I am very fond of your beauty recipes and make beauty products. I plan to try this shampoo bar, but can you tell me where to buy weighing scale that measures .5 of an ingredient mine is kitchen scale and measures whole numbers.Also would like to know to know where to buy ph calculator like the one you have, I do now with ph strips and gave bought a manual one from Amazon, kindly let me know.

      • Reply
        February 16, 2021 at 11:00 pm

        I am so you liked my blog and you are trying to make some. I am sure it will come out super and you will like it. I am not fond of pH strips as they have room for errors. I have a pH meter below is the link. I have also linked jewellery scale link. I hope this helps. This is a affiliate like so if you buy anything using this link it will share a small amount of revenue with me without charging anything to you. thought of making this clear. I hope it helps you

        Jewellery scale –
        pH calculator –

  • Reply
    Sunanda semwal
    November 13, 2020 at 9:32 pm

    How much D panthenol to add more in place of Dimethicone.. If Dimethicone is to be avoided.. Recipe is great.

    • Reply
      November 17, 2020 at 8:59 pm

      both have a different purpose so it cant be substituted with others. If you want to replace dimethicone you need to add broccoli seed oil as a natural silicone.

  • Reply
    Sofia Matias
    May 1, 2021 at 5:52 pm

    Hello, great recipe of a shampoo bar you have there! I am curious and plan to try it.

    I would like to let you know that CAPB was forgotten from the recipe instructions 🙂 being a liquid surfactant, I am in doubt if it should be added to dry ingredients or to the other liquids. I would tend to mix it after you heat the liquid ingredients and add the SCI/SLSa, when you have a dough.

    Please, let me know how to use the cocamidopropyl in your recipe.


    • Reply
      May 2, 2021 at 10:52 pm

      Thank you so much for pointing it out. You can add CAPB to the dry ingredients and then the heated phase and then do as per the instructions. I must have missed it so I am really sorry. However I have updated the instructions.

  • Reply
    Katja de Grijff
    May 25, 2021 at 10:36 pm

    Is it possible to leave the CAPB out (I don’t have it right now) or substitute it with the other surfectants already mentioned in the recipe?

    • Reply
      June 6, 2021 at 8:37 pm

      You can leave out CAPB and substitute it with coco glucoside or any other liquid surfactant. If you don’t have any so don’t worry make without them. Just replace the liquid with any other liquid.

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