Hair Care

Easy shampoo bar recipe without lye

September 13, 2020
easy shampoo bar recipe without lye

Easy Shampoo Bar Recipe Without Lye

Hempseed Oil Shampoo Bar Recipe

Today we are going to do easy shampoo bar recipe without lye with basic ingredients needed for a shampoo bar.

This is a syndet bar (synthetic + detergent) but having said that the surfactants that we will be using are naturally derived, biodegradable ingredients which are surfactants.

Syndet bars are different from shampoo bars that are made from lye and oil in many ways.

Firstly the ingredients secondly the pH value of both these bars is different. pH of soap bar is usually around 8-10 which can be quite harsh for the hair. Whereas pH of syndet bar can range from 4-7 this becomes a gentle cleanser to the hair. You can alter the pH of the shampoo bar which we will have a look in the instruction section.

Still if you have any queries please feel free to comment in the section below dedicated for comments and I would be happy to help.

To read more about what type of hair you have there is a full blogpost dedicated to this please have a look.  

Types of Hair

Coming back to easy shampoo bar without lye since the name of this blogpost is easy it has only the must haves and would not substitute for anything from the recipe

For this easy shampoo bar recipe I am using my absolute favorite oil i.e. Hempseed oil.

Let’s talk more about hempseed oil in detail before proceeding to the recipe.

Hempseed oil – ( INCI – Cannabis Sativa )

Hemp is one of the oldest plant and native to Himalayan region. I stay in state of Uttarakhand, India where it is natural crop to this terrain. It is grown legally and locally here for medicinal purposes and I am so proud of it. Therefore I make a lot of skincare and haircare products from it.  It is also known as “Industrial Hemp”. It’s scientific name is Cannabis Sativa.

It is green colored oil which is pressed from seeds of hemp plant. The unrefined version has dark grassy green color. I am using unrefined cold pressed hempseed oil so it has nice green color.

It is different from CBD which is an extract from the leaves of the plant which produce “High” in humans. CBD has high amount of THC (tetrahydrocannabinol ) which is connected to marijuana.

Hempseed oil does not contain THC therefore it is legally grown in the state of Uttarakhand.

Hempseed has 30 – 35% of oil in the seeds which is extracted by either cold pressing the hemp seeds in an oil extractor like we do for sesame seed oil or almond oil or rather any seed oil or by solvents.

Hempseed oil Constituents

Hemp seed oil is has polyunsaturated Omega 3 and Omega 6 fatty acids which are known to have a perfect ration that contributes to the health benefits to the hair and skincare products.

Other constituents of hempseed oil

It is rich in gamma-linolenic acid, phytosterols, vitamin D, vitamin E, carotene, chlorophyll, calcium and magnesium. This all make it a super ingredient to be added in skincare ad hair care products.

Benefits of Hempseed oil

Hempseed oil has loads of benefits for the hair.

It moisturizes the hair from root to shaft

It helps in hair growth

It adds a subtle shine to the hair.

It prevents water loss from the hair.

It revives damaged hair

It makes hair healthy, long and strong.

So now that you know my love for hempseed oil lets proceed further in creating easy shampoo bar recipe without lye

Ingredients used in Easy Shampoo Bar Recipe without lye

SCI – ( INCI – Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate )

SCI is a gentle anionic surfactant which is derived from coconut. I have used SCI powder in this formula but you can get SCI in noodles as well as needles. You cannot substitute powder with needles it will have a different formula as it will change the consistency of the whole product so please be careful. Usually at at 10% dilution pH is around 6 so that makes it a mild and gentle cleanser. We can make a lot of pH balanced formula’s with SCI. We will discuss this again in our Instructions part.

SlSa – ( INCI – Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate )

This is not a Sulphate which we need to avoid. We avoid SLS – Sodium Lauryl Sulfate which is not the same as SLSa.

SLSa is a super ingredient for our shampoo bars because it is also anionic surfactant like our SCI and much much milder. Usually the active of this ingredient is 70% but again check with your supplier.

It give super bubbles to our shampoo bar and I love to use it in many wash off products. I wish someday I will show all the products that I make from SLSa.

The pH of this surfactant is between 5 – 7 which is compatible to our hair.

It is a must add ingredient in my shampoo bars right now.

While using both the above ingredients wearing a DUST MASK is a MUST. These are fine particals and you don’t want them to inhale and irritate your lungs.

CAPB – ( INCI – Cocamidopropyl Betaine )

CAPB is the third surfactant used in this shampoo bar recipe and the first one to be liquid surfactant. It is a amphoteric surfactant which can be golden coloured or transparent in nature.

pH of this surfactant is in between 5-6 which is again well within the range of our final product.

It is also a mild surfactant and is so versatile. It is cheaper than any other surfactant used in the formula and can reduce the cost.

I make many liquid wash off product with CAPB as it is water soluble. I have a video on making handwash with this surfactant if you wish check this out.

So those are the 3 surfactants that we will be using in this formulation and we cannot substitute it with anything else until we change the whole formuation.

Next comes our emulsifiers that bind the bar together and make it sturdy.

BTMS 50 – ( INCI – Behentrimonium Methosulfate Cetyl Alcohol and Butylene Glycol )

BTMS 50 is in emulsifying agent cationic in nature which makes it conditioning. The 50 in BTMS 50 is the active ingredient of Behentrimonium Methosulfate.

pH of this ingredient is 7 which is well within range for hair care products.

I love this ingredient for two reason it is a complete emulsifying wax at the same time is a conditioning agent and I would never ever substitute this ingredient with anything else however if you looking for something else than BTMS 50 I guess it would be another blogpost in itself.

Cetyl Alcohol – ( INCI – Cetyl Alcohol )

Cetyl acohol is a thickener used in this formulation. It gives a nice body to the shampoo bar and helps in improving slip to the bar.

It will also stabilize the shampoo bar and allow it to hold its shape and do not melt away in the water that easily. It will make the bar nice and thick / hard.

Since it is oil soluble we will melt it with BTMS 50 and oil in the heated phase.

Glycerin – ( INCI – Glycerin )

We need an humectants in the recipe and the cheapest humectant I could find was glycerine.

It is such a versatile liquid that can be used in skincare and hair care products.

It is a thick transparent liquid which attracts the water molecule to itself and holds it together which makes it a great addition to the shampoo bar we are making.

Usually the pH of glycerin is 7 so we don’t have to worry about that part.

Preservative

This is one ingredient where a lot from our DIY skincare community have issues. Some say that you do not need to add preservative to a shampoo bar because it is anhydrous product.

Each is to its own.

My two cents on this is I will add preservative to my easy shampoo bar recipe without lye as I feel that this bar lasts unusually long and if I have to keep it in my bathroom forever and introduce humidity every time I take bath. Not head shower just plain simple shower then I will add preservative as I do not want mold, bacteria and yeast to grow on it.

Then again it’s your final call.

Easy Shampoo Bar Recipe without lye in percentage

60% – SCI powder

10% – SLSa powder

8% – Capb

6% – BTMS 50

5% – Cetyl Alcohol

2% – Glycerin

5% – Hempseed oil

2% – Bamboo Fragrance Oil

1% – Broad spectrum preservative

Easy Shampoo Bar Recipe without lye in grams

Total out put – 50 grams ( Fun fact – numeric’s can play trick here )

30 grams – SCI powder

5 grams – SLSa powder

4 grams – Capb

3 grams – BTMS 50

2.5 grams – Cetyl Alcohol

1 gram – Glycerin

2.5 gram – Hempseed oil

1 gram – Bamboo Fragrance Oil

0.5 gram – Broad spectrum preservative

Pinch of Green Mica ( optional )

Equipments for this project

Gloves

Heat safe Beakers or bowls

Mixing bowl

Spatula

Weighing scale

pH meter or Litmus paper or pH paper

Mold or Moon cake press or any mold as desired

Instruction to Follow for Easy Shampoo Bar Recipe without lye

Clean and sanitize all the area, containers and spatulas before making any skincare and hair care product. Maintaining good GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) is as important as making an effective product.

Wear a Dust Mask while handling SCI and SLSa as they can be irritant to the lungs.

First weight out SCI powder and SLSa powder and keep it aside. This is our dry phase

Now weight out BTMS 50, Cetyl alcohol, Hemp seed oil.

Warm step 2 ingredients in a heat proof container in a microwave with 30 seconds burst or on a double boiler till all the BTMS 50 and Cetyl alcohol is melted. This is our heated phase.

Do not burn the mixture.

Now mix in all the dry phase and heated phase together and knead it like a dough.

Once everything is mixed well let the mixture cool down below 40 degrees Celsius.

Add this stage check your pH with either a litmus strip or a pH meter with 10% solution.

If the shampoo bar pH is below 7 we are good to go.

If the pH is above 7 add a acid like a 50% solution of citric acid drop by drop and adjust the pH.

Now add Preservative, Bamboo Fragrance Oil and a pinch of Green Mica.

Ideally I would check pH after this step as well since there are some preservative which will reduce the pH of a product in case it the pH goes below 4.5 I would like to add some NaOH 50% solution drop by drop till I reach a required pH. Please make sure you note this down the first time you conduct the trials so next time you can add it directly to the recipe while making it. I hope I am clear about this. If not please write it in comments section I would be happy to answer.

Knead it well.

I am using a moon cake press for molding but feel free to use anything mold.

I have also added some glitter but that is completely optional.

Ideally I would allow it to dry for 3 days having said that since this is a syndet bar we would not need to cure it. 3 days is just the drying period to make the bar much stronger and harder so it is easier to handle.

Feel Free to scale the recipe up or down as per your needs.

Do let me know how it worked out for you.

Looking forward to have a communication feedback with you about this recipe.

If you wish to watch me make this please do check out the video format.

Note:

Please make sure you keep this shampoo bar in dry ventilated area in between the use.

Usually I have no issues of getting a soggy bar with the easy shampoo bar recipe without lye but if you do have any issues like this comment in the box below I would be happy to answer.

Make sure your shampoo bar is pH range of hair which is usually between 4.5 – 5.5

Even if the pH of shampoo bar is 7 it is a good pH do not go over 7 for any haircare product.

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Easy Shampoo Bar Recipe without lye

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Ingredients

  • 30 grams - SCI powder
  • 5 grams - SLSa powder
  • 4 grams - CAPB
  • 3 grams - BTMS 50
  • 2.5 grams - Cetyl Alcohol
  • 1 gram - Glycerin
  • 2.5 gram - Hempseed oil
  • 1 gram - Bamboo Fragrance Oil
  • 0.5 gram - Broad spectrum preservative
  • Pinch of Green Mica ( optional )

Instructions

1

Clean and sanitize all the areas, containers, and spatulas before making any skincare and hair care products. Maintaining good GMP (Good Manufacturing Practices) is as important as making an effective product.

2

Wear a Dust Mask while handling SCI and SLSa as they can be irritant to the lungs.

3

First weight out SCI powder and SLSa powder and keep it aside. This is our dry phase

4

Now weight out BTMS 50, Cetyl alcohol, Hemp seed oil.

5

Warm step 2 ingredients in a heatproof container in a microwave with 30 seconds burst or on a double boiler till all the BTMS 50 and Cetyl alcohol is melted. This is our heated phase.

6

Do not burn the mixture.

7

Now mix in all the dry phase and heated phase together and knead it like a dough.

8

Once everything is mixed well let the mixture cool down below 40 degrees Celsius.

9

Add this stage to check your pH with either a litmus strip or a pH meter with a 10% solution.

10

If the shampoo bar pH is below 7 we are good to go.

11

If the pH is above 7 add an acid like a 50% solution of citric acid drop by drop and adjust the pH.

12

Now add Preservative, Bamboo Fragrance Oil, and a pinch of Green Mica.

13

Ideally, I would check pH after this step as well since there is some preservative which will reduce the pH of a product in case it the pH goes below 4.5 I would like to add some NaOH 50% solution drop by drop till I reach a required pH. Please make sure you note this down the first time you conduct the trials so next time you can add it directly to the recipe while making it. I hope I am clear about this. If not please write it in the comments section I would be happy to answer.

14

Knead it well.

15

I am using a moon cake press for molding but feel free to use anything mold.

16

I have also added some glitter but that is completely optional.

17

Ideally, I would allow it to dry for 3 days having said that since this is a syndet bar we would not need to cure it. 3 days is just the drying period to make the bar much stronger and harder so it is easier to handle

Notes

Please make sure you keep this shampoo bar in a dry ventilated area in between the use. Usually, I have no issues of getting a soggy bar with the easy shampoo bar recipe without lye but if you do have any issues like this comment in the box below I would be happy to answer. Make sure your shampoo bar is pH range of hair which is usually between 4.5 – 5.5 Even if the pH of the shampoo bar is 7 it is a good pH do not go over 7 for any hair care product.

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